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This blog post comes from Megan Parker, the new General Manager of The Bagby Group’s upcoming Cunningham’s Cafe & Bakery. On her own volition, she wanted to learn more about the artisan bread that will be offered this fall at the new Towson cafe. This was her experience with Bagby Head Baker John Aversa…
“Few things are as ordinary as a loaf of bread, yet the process by which it is made is extraordinary” - Michael Pollan, Cooked.
During my years as a restaurant manager, 10pm used to be the middle of my workday; a whirling medley of food, wine, servers, guests, plates, glasses, and silverware. Thus it felt strange – though also calming – to arrive at Fleet Street Kitchen at that hour to begin an all-night shift baking bread.
Baking bread for a living is not easy work; the long, odd hours – times when most of us are fast asleep – is just one of the hardships bakers endure. The heat is another. Difficult even today, for centuries bakers worked in their underwear, straining amid the torrid calidity of their bakeshops. (Don’t worry folks – everyone at Fleet Street Kitchen is fully clothed!)
Bakers have also been the targets of violence during times of political strife. During the French Revolution, accused of cheating their customers on weight, some were quite literally thrown into their ovens. Responding to the violence, some bakers began including an extra loaf in their orders to ensure their customers were happy and that they would live to bake another day! This has come to be known as the “baker’s dozen.”
Facing such hardships, the artisan baker is an increasingly rare breed. Truly it is a lot to balance: the technical knowledge to understand and execute complicated formulas, the patience to oblige and respect the organic processes that take place on their own schedule, the strength to deftly manipulate fifty pounds of slippery dough as well as the artistic ability to hand form the dough into countless different styles and score it perfectly to produce a beautiful and flavorful loaf. We eat first with our eyes, after all.
On the evening I arrived, I joined our Head Baker, John Aversa, and Michelle, his young assistant. Enthusiastic and eager, I expected to jump into things, but was immediately impressed by the meticulous care that went into every step of the baking process; artisan bread is laborious and never easy. We began by gathering supplies, ingredients were weighed and put in the cavernous mixer at specific intervals and then the heavy, cumbersome dough that resulted was placed into large containers to rise until the “first turn.” Different breads, I would discover have different rise times, depending on the amount and type of starters they use. The levain and pouliche we use in our breads are natural starters, which allow the breads to rise without the use of commercial yeasts. John has adapted his formulas throughout the years and while he relies on them to an extent, much of the dough making process was a matter of him “feeling” the other variables, such as temperature and timing. Ultimately, he would know when the dough was ready by knowing what to look for. Bakers sometimes judge dough by the window test – stretching the dough so that it’s thin enough to see through, without breaking. This is one way to see if enough gluten has developed to strengthen the dough.
While John is a baker with a reverence and deep respect for tradition, he also has his own methods and approach. This was made evident when we began our brioche, a notoriously difficult dough to work with due to the amount of butter that’s called for. Butter, while a common topping to bread, is rarely used in the dough – none of the other breads we made that night used any. Traditional French bakers have a very particular way of making brioche, keeping the butter very cold and adding it in very small amounts to the mix. While John keeps his butter chilled right up until he needs it, he deviates by beating the butter until it’s thoroughly whipped, and then adds it to the dough all at once. This break from convention would engage many a traditionalist but I’m here to tell you that the finished product rivals the brioche I can clearly remember savoring in Paris.
By 1:00 am, all the dough was mixed: pain complet, sesame semolina, baguette, ciabatta, Italian, focaccia, multi grain, and brioche. The times for turning each type of dough were determined and recorded in Michelle’s notebook. We moved to the next kitchen for our first lesson in forming. We started with the most difficult of all of the breads, the iconic baguette. “Palms on the table please,” John reminds us as we’re rolling out the delicate portions. My competitive nature was my downfall here, as I discovered you couldn’t actually beat dough into submission. It’s alive and unforgiving at this stage. I was disappointed in the fat ends of my baguettes in comparison with John’s beautifully tapered forms.
At this point, I realized just how many factors are crucial to crafting exquisite bread: the frequency and temperature at which you feed your starter (which will ultimately determine if it’s mild or strongly flavored bread) , the timing and number of turns, the preform, shaping, proofing, scoring, steaming, bake time and a myriad of factors that I can’t comprehend, all have a significant effect on the appearance and taste of the end product. I could truly appreciate what it meant to be an artisan baker and it could not be boiled down to an exact science. It was the sum of many skills and an artistry that is not learned in a few years of school or apprenticeship, but achieved through a lifetime of passion and commitment to the craft of bread making.
Back to forming…..we moved from baguettes to batards, which proved to be slightly easier for me to handle. At this point, I started talking to the dough and asking it to cooperate and forgive me because it was my first time. Next we did boules and finally brioche rolls, which were the simplest to shape, and I actually attempted rolling 1 in each hand. The brioche is always the most difficult to work with because of the amount of fat in it’s make up, but we were able to braid them and then make some brioche à tête just for fun. This gave me a small amount of confidence for my forming abilities and when they came out of their molds in the oven, I tasted victory.
Ultimately, at 6:30am, I gave in to my exhaustion, and left just before the last loaves were to come out of the ovens. John and Michelle were jovial and optimistic about the evening’s work and I thanked them for allowing me a window into their world. The most significant thing I gained from my all night baking experience was the ability to gauge a loaf of bread by looking at it – the height, the shape, the color and the cell structure of the crumb (interior) reveal much about what it will taste like and the amount of care that was taken in creating it.
The next time you eat at any of The Bagby Group’s restaurants (Bagby Pizza Company, Ten Ten American Bistro, Fleet Street Kitchen or, this fall in Towson, Cunningham’s and Cunningham’s Café & Bakery), take notice of the bread and you’ll taste what I mean. The flavor and soul of these breads are much more than just the sum of their parts.
After recently giving an in depth training on Austrian Riesling to the FSK staff, Fleet Street Kitchen & Bagby Restaurant Group’s Beverage Director Tim Riley and Sommelier Philip Lucas offered up their “Top Ten Reasons To Drink Riesling in Baltimore”… Enjoy (and please excuse their bad jokes)…
2) Heat. Its supposed to be 95 or above every single day this week. With temperatures like these, one needs a wine with ample acidity and a light enough frame to not seem heavy or tiresome. Enter Riesling. While we’re not sure of its electrolyte content, we can assure you its more refreshing than Gatorade.
3) H.L. Mencken, who kept a cellar full of German Riesling to get him through Prohibition. We bet he was removing bottles pretty regularly during the summer months at 1524 Hollins Road. We’ll follow his lead.
4) Lake Trout. Okay, its not trout and it doesn’t come from a lake, but when its fried until crispy and dashed with hot sauce, it becomes the sort of dish that needs Riesling as its sidekick. We’d lean towards something just off-dry, but pretty much anything you find should work.
5) FSK’s Hermann J. Wiemer Wine Dinner. A shameless plug, we admit, but this is a no brainer: five Rieslings from arguably the best producer of Riesling outside of Europe paired with five courses from Fleet Street Kitchen’s Executive Chef, Chris Amendola. And before you go ahead thinking Chef will be taking the easy route and offering five dishes of seafood, be sure to check out the menu. Four words: lamb neck with Riesling. Amazing. (The dinner is on Wednesday July 24th at 6:00pm. $79 per person.)
6) Chris Davis. He’s on pace for the first 60 home run season baseball has seen in twelve years. Sounds like something to celebrate. Champagne? In this heat? No way. He needs Sekt, the German term for sparkling wine – the best examples being made from Riesling. Fizzy, bright and gulpable, this stuff is so delicious, Mr. Davis might consider drinking it instead of spraying it on his teammates.
7) The Summer of Riesling, Baby! Did it take us this long to mention that it is THE Summer of Riesling? A nationwide celebration began by the ultimate wine iconoclast, Paul Grieco, a few years back, one can now find all sorts of interesting Riesling promotions going on at a handful of restaurants across town. Our very own Fleet Street Kitchen is participating, of course, as is Wit & Wisdom, Pabu, Wine Market and Mr. Rain’s Funhouse.
8) More refreshing than Natty Boh. Its tough to knock Boh. Its a Baltimore tradition. But whether patio dining, sitting on the front stoop, or cooking in front of the grill, you’re more likely to find a glass of Riesling in our hands than a can of Boh. Again, no offense to Mr. Boh, but until he can offer the spine-tingling acidity of a good Kabinett, we’ll stick with Riesling.
9) Value. Here’s one of the best kept secrets in the wine world: Riesling is ridiculously undervalued; for $20 to $30 one can buy world-class examples. Even for $10 to $20 there are scores of spectacular options. How many spectacular wines can one find for $10 from Napa or Bordeaux? Not many.
For the next week, soft-shell blue crabs are hitting the tables across Baltimore for Downtown Partnership’s Soft-Shell Celebration. Here at Fleet Street and Ten Ten, Chef Amendola and Chef Black have prepared two magnificent soft-shell specials. These will be running for the next week….
Ten Ten American Bistro
Yuzu Tempura Soft Shell Blue Crab – chili aioli, radish, pickled ramps, napa cabbage
Fleet Street Kitchen
Cornmeal Fried Soft Shell Blue Crab – arugula-almond pesto, snow peas, confit duck
Spring has officially sprung, and summer is not far away! Inspired by the smoke of summer campfires, Fleet Street Kitchen’s Pastry Chef Bettina Perry has created a gorgeous new dessert, aptly named “Campfire,” feautring her smoked tea & chocolate ice cream.
Beverage Director Tim Riley has also been hard at work creating some spring inspired cocktails for Fleet Street Kitchen, many of which are made with his housemade ingredients, including a rose vermouth and hibiscus grenadine. Each cocktail adds it’s own flavor to the palate of spring and the early buds of summer.
Creole ~ Rye whiskey, house rosé vermouth, benedictine, house amer picon
Blaze Starr ~ Vodka, house rhubarb jam, hibiscus grenadine, lemon
Willie’s Revenge ~ single malt scotch, local honey, bonal, lemon, kümmel, union craft brewing sour wheat ale
Shirts vs. Blouses ~ tequila, pimm’s #1, cassis, lime
Chef Roger Black is a big fan of pancakes. So when he recently came on as our new Chef De Cuisine at Ten Ten American Bistro, perfecting Ten Ten’s sour cream pancake recipe was high on his list. Sour cream gives pancakes an added tangy flavor, similar to buttermilk, but their true decadence is in their texture. Smooth and silky, a bite into these pancakes is unbeatable. This may be one of the sexiest pancake recipe yet. We pair it with our homemade blueberry preserves and mint, sourced from our own Cunningham Farms, and a slide of extra sour cream (or as we did at Easter, some homemade Nutella). Note: if you’ve never tried mint with blueberries and pancakes, you’re in for a surprise! We hope you enjoy this recipe and if you’re not a cook, you are always welcome to stop in to Ten Ten for brunch (Sundays, 11am-3pm)…the pancakes will be waiting for you.
TEN TEN’S SOUR CREAM PANCAKES
Mushroom Flatbread – fried Cunningham Farm eggs, fontina cheese, parsley
Seared Local Rockfish – pickled okra black eyed peas, chow chow, baby chard, buerre blanc
Hudson Valley Fois Gras & Duck Confit “Pave” – sweet potato croquettes, duck cracklings, bourbon cherry gastrique
Peanut Butter-Chocolate Cup – peanut brittle, creme fraiche
Pastry Chef Nikki DeBrouse has been hard at work creating some fabulous new desserts for our guests at TEN TEN. The Hazelnut Bombe, you may remember from our Valentine’s menu, is now being put on the dessert menu permanently. These are all certainly worth a try.
Hazelnute Bombe – devil’s food, orange ganache, chocolate glaze
Cranberry-Mascarpone Panna Cotta
Pistachio, vanilla reduction, cranberries
Pine nut shortbread, sweet cream reduction
Caramelized Banana Cake
Crème fraîche, walnuts, coconut sorbet
At The Bagby Restaurant Group, we talk a lot about attention to detail and doing things “the right way.” For us, “the right way” is taking time with our ingredients, preparing them properly, and making as much as we can from scratch. Even each sandwich is given thought and time. The result are dishes that highlight local ingredients and transform individual flavors into a cohesive, savory experience for our guests. Such is the case with TEN TEN’s housemade Corned Beef Reuben.
When creating the TEN TEN Reuben, sous chef Roger Black doesn’t mess around. To start, he uses fresh sauerkraut rye bread, baked daily by Bagby’s Head Baker John Aversa. “The bread is full of good, healthy energy,” Black explains, “It’s a good start to any sandwich, but designed specifically to echo the flavors in the Reuben.”
Black’s next ingredients are the stars of the sandwich, but also the most time intensive – sauerkraut and corned beef. For his sauerkraut, Black uses fresh local cabbage to which he adds salt, juniper berries, and caraway. The juniper and caraway here are especially unique and something that won’t be found in your ordinary can of store-bought sauerkraut. “Our thought was to make the caraway flavor (which is the main flavor in rye bread) carry throughout the sandwich, so we introduced the caraway from our bread into the sauerkraut as well.”
Once mixed together, the cabbage sits for over three weeks, but is turned by hand weekly to make sure that undesirable bacteria doesn’t interfere with the pickling process. This procedure is not undertaken with mass-produced sauerkraut and a detail that Black is particularly passionate about. “It just doesn’t taste the same. There’s not the same level of flavor in that sauerkraut. It’s completely different.” His passion and effort translates into a beautiful ingredient – a slightly sweet, spicy, and tangy sauerkraut accented by the earthy notes of juniper and caraway.
The same care is given to curing the beef brisket for the Reuben’s corned beef. Using modern twists on classic corned beef preparation, each aspect of creating the corned beef is meant to build more and more flavor into the meat. Sous chef Black first prepares a brine of pickling spices, curing salt, kosher salt, cinnamon and brown sugar. The brisket then sits in the brine for two weeks and rotated frequently. This both tenderizes and imparts the brine’s sweet cinnamon flavor to the meat.
When fully cured, the brisket is dried and rubbed with a toasted spice mixture of coriander, black pepper, star anise, sliced garlic, fresh red pepper, mustard seed, and bay leaves. Then vacuum sealed with some of the remaining brine and sous-vide (a slow modern method of cooking in a hot water bath) for 18 hours, the meat builds even more deliciousness as it slowly cooks in herb and spice infused juices.
After being cooked, the corned beef is sliced and piled on top of the Sauerkraut Rye, along with the sauerkraut, swiss cheese, and TEN TEN’s bistro sauce. When you take your first bite, the different layers of flavors are staggering. From the creamy sour of the sauerkraut to the cinnamon-laced corned beef to the caraway accents throughout, each ingredient plays its part in creating a cohesive flavorful sandwich.
There is something about time and care that imparts food with a special essence. Like our grandmother’s thanksgiving supper, when effort is put into a meal, when time is taken, and each detail of preparation is considered, the flavors of the dishes build and so does our appreciation of that meal. It is this deep appreciation for good ingredients and slow, thoughtful preparation that we aim to create in our Reuben, and with every bite that we hope you will savor.